Shen Yuan laughs behind his sleeve, accepting the wine with his other hand. "So A-Sang really did it? I admit I had my doubts."

Once Huaisang has poured for himself Shen Yuan raises his glass - here, in a Western-style hotel, it would have to be a glass - in the first toast of the evening. "I'll certainly never doubt A-Sang again," he says, with exaggerated solemnity and a twinkle in his eyes, before he drinks.